Where to drink and eat well in McLaren Vale this summer

Travel

With more than 80 cellar doors spread across the region, McLaren Vale can be a lot on a first pass. Here’s a short guide to the operators that stand out right now.
Down the Rabbit Hole at sunset. A must see.
Down the Rabbit Hole at sunset. A must see.

McLaren Vale didn’t need another write-up, but the region has been creeping back into the national conversation for good reason. D’Arenberg and it’s iconic Cube last month landed at number one on Time Out’s list of Australia’s best wineries. Wirra Wirra sits comfortably in the top 30. And Dandelion Vineyards picked up a global architecture award in Verona for its Wonder Room, putting the Vale on the same stage as other Great Wine Capitals.

That mix of heritage names and sharp new operators has shifted the region’s rhythm. You’ve got century-old estates still carrying weight, next to stripped-back tasting rooms run by young teams who know exactly what they’re doing. Add the coastal pull of Port Willunga and you end up with a wine region that runs on two speeds at once.

So where do you even start when you’ve got 48 hours to explore?

We chose Dandelion, Coriole, Harry’s Deli at Wirra Wirra, and Down the Rabbit Hole – a tight run that gives you a clear look at what’s worth your time right now.

Dandelion Vineyards

Dandelion has been around for years, but the Wonder Room has changed its profile entirely. The space was a tractor shed until Elena and Zar Brooks rebuilt it as a glass-fronted tasting room that opens straight onto the vines. It won the global award in Verona for architecture and landscape, which sounds big until you stand inside and see why.


Coriole

A few minutes up the hill, Coriole shows the older side of the Vale. The family planted Sangiovese here in the 1980s when most local producers were leaning into heavier reds. That decision shaped the region. If you drink Sangiovese or Fiano in Australia, Coriole had something to do with it.

The cellar door sits inside stone buildings surrounded by olive trees that look like they’ve been there forever. Their Fiano runs saline and citrus driven. The Sangiovese is another winner. Ohh and there’s house olive oil on pour, which is definitely worth taking home on its own.


Wirra Wirra and Harry’s Deli

Wirra Wirra has the history and scale, but Harry’s Deli is the surprise. It’s tucked behind the old cellars and serves a menu that may require a little snooze on the adjacent lawns after lunch. The kitchen uses vegetables from the estate gardens and keeps the dishes straightforward. Grilled peaches, tomatoes, skewers, bread that is baked properly, not bought in. It’s a solid lunch without fuss.

Church Block remains the hot seller in the tasting room, but if you have time, book the short tour through the historic brick cellars.


Port Willunga Beach

Late afternoon is when the region slows down. Port Willunga is ten minutes from most cellar doors and one of the few beaches in the country where you can pull straight onto the sand. We picked up fish and chips from Star of Greece and drove down to the waterfront. The cliffs catch the last light and the beach runs long and open with no noise except the tide.

We were driving a Lexus RX 500h F SPORT for the weekend and this was where it earned its keep. The hybrid engine stayed quiet on the descent and the cabin tech made the slow roll onto the sand feel simple.

Inside, the 14 inch touchscreen is easy to use when you are bouncing between maps, cellar door bookings and playlists. The boot easily handled a weekend load of bags, a few bottles and the usual market haul.

The Lexus RX 500h F SPORT. Image: Forbes Australia
The Lexus RX 500h F SPORT. Image: Forbes Australia

Down the Rabbit Hole

Down the Rabbit Hole is the opposite in feel, but it works on its own terms. Elise and Domenic Cook built a cellar door that doubles as their home and community space. There’s a bus parked on the lawn that acts as a tasting room and an Italian kitchen called Fiore that turns out seasonal pasta and share plates.

An Instagrammer’s dream backdrop, don’t leave it to chance. Get down early if you want a good spot.

Look back on the week that was with hand-picked articles from Australia and around the world. Sign up to the Forbes Australia newsletter here or become a member here.

More from Forbes Australia

Avatar of Samuel Hussey
Head of News & Life