The top lot is a carved light gray chalcedony ring centered with a 10.10-carat, fancy intense orangy pink diamond. Its estimate is $2.5 million to $3.5 million
Pauline Karpidas is known for her extensive and varied collection of art and design. A portion of her Surrealist collection recently sold at Sotheby’s London for more than $137 million, setting a record for a single-owner sale series in London.
Karpidas also placed considerable emphasis on her jewelry collection. A selection of 70 pieces will be offered in a dedicated sale, “Pauline Karpidas: The Jewelry Collection,” at Sotheby’s New York on December 8. The collection is expected to bring approximately $10 million, according to the auction house.
The sale includes one-of-a-kind creations by Joel Arthur Rosenthal (JAR) and Suzanne Belperron, alongside a group of Retro jewels by Boucheron, Van Cleef & Arpels, Bulgari, Jacques Lacloche and Trabert & Hoeffer-Mauboussin. Important Art Deco pieces by Cartier and an array of vividly colored gemstones round out the offering.
JAR’s distinctive jewelry designs reflect Karpidas’ artistic interests and aesthetic sensibilities, according to Sotheby’s. The top lot in the sale is a carved light gray chalcedony ring centered with a 10.10-carat, pear-shaped fancy intense orangy pink diamond, bordered by single-cut diamonds. The VVS1-clarity diamond is set within the curved chalcedony setting. Its estimate is $2.5 million to $3.5 million.
Another important JAR creation is a floral gold pendant necklace shaped like a pansy. The flower’s center is set with round spessartine and demantoid garnets and black diamonds, accented by green, purple and orange enamel. It is mounted on a rigid gold choker. The estimate is $250,000 to $350,000.
A third JAR creation is a sapphire and diamond necklace featuring gold lock motifs set with matching oval-shaped Sri Lankan sapphires of considerable size. It carries an estimate of $200,000 to $300,000.
French jewelry designer Suzanne Belperron (1900-1983) is represented by an aquamarine and diamond necklace distinguished by its jagged asymmetry and complex construction. It has an estimate of $150,000 to $250,000.
Karpidas’ appreciation for jewelry with historical significance and important provenance is evident in an early 18th-century sapphire and gem-set reliquary cross, which Sotheby’s says she frequently wore to galas and dinner parties. The elaborate, colorful piece is centered with a faceted sapphire and further set with cut-cornered rectangular mixed-cut peridots and citrines, emerald-cut rubies and emeralds, and rose-cut diamonds. On the reverse, rock crystal-covered compartments are said to contain five relics, including those of the True Cross, Saint Paul, Saint Peter, Saint Philip Neri and Saint Francis.
The unusual use of gemstones for the period and the religious significance of the piece are complemented by its provenance. The cross originated in the collection of Francesco Martelli, who served as Apostolic Nuncio to Poland, Latin Patriarch of Jerusalem and Cardinal from 1706 until his death in 1717. Its estimate is $80,000 to $120,000.
Two pieces in the sale were acquired by Karpidas at Sotheby’s 1988 auction of jewelry and watches from the estate of Andy Warhol. They are a rock crystal bracelet by Seaman Schepps, circa 1945, estimated at $50,000 to $70,000, and an amethyst and diamond brooch with a pair of earclips by Verdura, estimated at $20,000 to $30,000.
Also included are a pair of ruby boule bead earrings and a matching ruby boule bead ring by Cartier, acquired at Sotheby’s 1987 sale of the jewels of the Duchess of Windsor. The group carries an estimate of $100,000 to $150,000.
Sotheby’s will hold a public exhibition of the jewelry beginning December 2, ahead of the December 8 auction.
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