Cartier jewels lead Sotheby’s Paris ‘fine jewellery’ sale

Jewellery

The autumn auction season for Sotheby’s begins with its “Fine Jewellery” sale in Paris on September 30. The auction is part of Sotheby’s Luxury Week in the “City of Lights” that features live and online sales of jewels, watches, handbags and accessories, and wine and spirits.
Cartier ring with an 18.25 carat cushion shape vivid blue Burmese sapphire.
Cartier ring with an 18.25 carat cushion shape vivid blue Burmese sapphire. Estimate $468,101 – $702,152 (Sotheby’s)

The Fine Jewellery auction of 269 lots weighs heavily toward signed jewels, with many, as one would expect, from historic Parisian high jewellery houses. The sale is led by 33 pieces by Cartier, 14 pieces by Van Cleef & Arpels and 10 pieces by Boucheron. These and other French jewels are complemented by pieces from a diverse group of important jewellery and fashion houses from Europe, the United Kingdom and the United States that include Bulgari, Graff, de Grisogono and Jacob & Co.

The top lot in the sale is a Cartier ring set with an 18.25-carat cushion-shaped unheated Burmese sapphire shouldered by brilliant-cut and baguette diamonds (top photo). The sapphire boasts a vivid blue color, often referred to as “Royal Blue.” Its estimate is 400,000 – 600,000 euros ($468,101 – $702,152).

Cartier Panthere bangle with sapphire spots, diamonds, emerald eyes and onyx nose.
Cartier Panthere bangle with sapphire spots, diamonds, emerald eyes and onyx nose. Estimate: $234,050 – $351,076 (Sotheby’s)

This is followed by an 18k gold and platinum Cartier Panthère bangle, one of the iconic designs from the French jeweler. The panther is set with buff-top sapphire spots and brilliant cut diamonds. The eyes are set with pear shaped emeralds with the figure completed by a polish onyx nose. Its estimate is 200,000 – 300,000 euros ($234,050 – $351,076).

10.68-carat Kashmir sapphire ring flanked by diamonds. Estimate: $257,455 – $327,671
10.68-carat Kashmir sapphire ring flanked by triangular diamonds. Estimate: $257,455 – $327,671 (Sotheby’s)

Among unsigned jewels, the top lot is a platinum ring centered by a 10.68-carat cushion-shaped unheated Kashmir sapphire flanked by triangular diamond shoulders. Its estimate is 220,000 – 280,000 euros ($257,455 – $327,671).

Fancy intense yellow diamond earrings by Graff. Estimate: $210,645 - $327,671
Fancy intense yellow diamond earrings by Graff. Estimate: $210,645 – $327,671 (Sotheby’s)

Among jewels outside of France, the top lot is a pair of gold earrings by famed London jeweler, Graff, featuring radiant cut fancy intense yellow diamonds weighing 6.53 and 7.04 carats with both boasting VS1 clarity. Above each fancy yellow diamond is a brilliant cut diamond. Its estimate is 180,000 – 280,000 euros ($210,645 – $327,671).

A 4.03 carat fancy pink diamond pendant on an 18k gold chain. Estimate $210,645 - $280,861
A 4.03 carat fancy pink diamond pendant on an 18k gold chain. Estimate $210,645 – $280,861 (Sotheby’s)

Rounding out the top five lots is a 4.03-carat cushion-shaped fancy pink diamond pendant with I2 clarity attached to an 18k gold chain. Its estimate is 180,000 – 240,000 euros ($210,645 – $280,861).

Other highlights of the sale include the following finely crafted pieces:

Cartier Paris diamond double clips and diamond necklace. Estimate: $87,769 - $175,538
Cartier Paris diamond double clips and diamond necklace. Estimate: $87,769 – $175,538 (Sotheby’s)

A jewellery set by Cartier Paris consisting of a pair of double ear clips set with brilliant-cut, marquise and oval and baguette diamonds; and a necklace set with brilliant-cut diamonds. Its estimate is 75,000 – 150,000 euros ($87,769 – $175,538).

Boucheron bracelet with hidden watch of diamonds and sapphires. Estimate: $46,810-$93,620
Boucheron bracelet with hidden watch made with diamonds and sapphires. Estimate: $46,810 – $93,620 (Sotheby’s)

A sapphire and diamond women’s bracelet with a hidden watch by Boucheron. It features a graduating row of millegrain-set old European-cut diamonds flanked by channel-set caliber-cut sapphires. The center of the bracelet displays a flip-top cover set with a rose-cut diamond, within a caliber-cut sapphire border, opening to reveal a round dial. It’s one of 11 watches in the sale. Its estimate is 40,000 – 80,000 euros ($46,810 – $93,620).

Toi et Moi ring set with a step-cut emerald and sapphire flanked by triagular diamonds
Toi et Moi ring set with a step-cut emerald and sapphire flanked by triagular diamonds by Faraone. Estimate: $58,512 – $ 81,917 (Sotheby’s)

A ”Toi et Moi” ring with a step-cut Kashmir emerald and a Colombian sapphire that are featuring collet-set and flanked by triangular diamonds. The jewel is partially signed Faraone. Its estimate is 50,000 – 70,000 euros ($58, 512 – $ 81,917).

The live sale will be held in two sessions at Sotheby’s new Paris headquarters at 83, rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré. Online bidding has begun.

This article was originally published on forbes.com and all figures are in USD.

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