Watches & Wonders 2023: Rolex, Patek Philippe, Tag Heuer and more set to release new timepieces

Watches

Watches & Wonders, the premiere international watch fair, opened its doors Monday with 48 brands and watchmakers unveiling scores of new timepieces showcasing the industry’s mastery of mechanics, craftsmanship and design.

The watch fair in Geneva begins at a time when there is perhaps unprecedented growth in the luxury watch market. February data from the Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry show that the sustained growth in the industry has experienced since the covid pandemic is continuing. Swiss watch exports for the month rose by 12.2% to a “very high” 2.2 billion Swiss francs ($2.4 billion).

Nearly all price categories (except for watches with wholesale prices of 200 – 500 Swiss francs) experienced growth for the month. Previously, it was primarily the highest priced watches that led exports. In addition, the six top regional markets reported increases in exports in the month, with several experiencing double-digit increases.

“Brands have had record exports and expect more records in the months to come. If watches are expensive, they sell, and they are bought by people who have money and are willing to spend it on watches,” says Alexander Linz, a veteran watch industry journalist, and partner and head of content of WatchAdvisor, a popular YouTube channel about watches.

Below are just a few of watches that will be released by the time the seven-day fair concludes on April 2.

Chopard L.U.C 1963 Heritage Chronograph
Chopard L.U.C 1963 Heritage Chronograph

Chopard L.U.C 1963 Heritage Chronograph

The Swiss luxury watch and jewellery brand has released a full slate of men’s and women’s watches, including this timepiece being issued in a 25-piece limited edition (see top photo as well). The 42mm timepiece made of Chopard’s proprietary Lucent steel contains an English-green dial and L.U.C Caliber 03.07-L hand wound movement with chronometer-certified precision.

Lucent Steel, which the brand says provides superior resistance and luminosity, is made of 80% recycled elements.

The green dial is adorned with a sunburst pattern and the “L.U.CHOPARD” logo at 12 o’clock. Double-digit hour markers are reminiscent of a car dashboard rev counter. From 05 to 60, they indicate the chronograph minutes and seconds. The movement is visible through a transparent caseback with gilded baseplate and bridges. The upper surface is made of raw nickel silver which heightens the contrast of the caliber.

Caseback of the Chopard L.U.C 1963 Heritage Chronograph

Caseback of the Chopard L.U.C 1963 Heritage Chronograph

The L.U.C Caliber 03.07-L has a flyback mechanism enabling consecutive timing operations without having to zero-reset the counters. It operates with a pusher at 4 o’clock. It employs a system that involves three pivoting hammers with elastic arms activated by a single linear-displacement lever.

Its coupling-clutch is vertical for more reliable starting of the chronograph seconds hand. Pulling out the crown resets the small seconds at 6 o’clock to zero and keeps it there. Because of these mechanical enhancements, Chopard has filed four invention patents.

Hermès H08
Hermès H08 timepiece

Hermès H08 timepiece

The newest version of this classic watch is crafted in a sturdy and light alloy, with multiple textures and finishes. The cushion-shaped 39mm case is composed of a black DLC-treated titanium caseback topped by a rose gold case middle. This is further enhanced by a black ceramic bezel and crown. Alternating satin-brushed and polished finishes, the two-tone case highlights the depth of the blackened, finely grained dial against luminescent golden hands and Arabic numerals.

The central minutes disc and the seconds hand are treated in black nickel, while the date appears in a cushion-shaped aperture between 4 and 5 o’clock. The watch is driven by the in-house H1837 mechanical automatic movement. A strap in black and anthracite fabric webbing or black rubber completes this urban-sporty timepiece.

Baume & Mercier Hampton Collection
The Baume & Mercier M0A10732 Hampton Watch

The Baume & Mercier M0A10732 Hampton Watch

Baume & Mercier has released three editions of its Hampton timepiece, known for its classic rectangular shape.

The M0A10732 is highlighted by a sun-satin opaline blue dial adorned with rhodium-plated, riveted Arabic numerals; hour indexes; and a black minute track inside a steel case. It is powered by an automatic movement with a 38-hour power reserve.

The M0A10709 is a women’s version of this watch features four brilliant round diamonds at 6 and 12 o’clock. The polished stainless-steel case is set with 28 brilliant-cut diamonds. It is powered by a quartz movement.

The M0A10740 has a recurring rectangular shape in the center of the dial. The watch itself represents subtle shades of steel, gray and white. The watch is completed with an integrated steel strap and powered by a quartz movement.

Chronoswiss Open Gear Paraiba
Chronoswiss Open Gear Paraiba

Chronoswiss Open Gear Paraiba

This timepiece features three-dimensional construction on two levels: the lower level with hand guilloche and a green-blue iridescent CVD coating; and an upper level with a skeletonised gear train, bridges and funnel-shaped hour and seconds indicators, and a black galvanised finish. The time display with a central minute, decentralised hour at 12 o’clock and a circling crescent at 6 o’clock, allows a view of the mechanics of the regulator. The watch is powered by the in-house caliber C. 301 and is housed in a 41mm stainless steel case.

Angelus Chronographe Médical x Massena LAB

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Angelus Chronograph Médical x Massena LAB

Angelus Chronograph Médical x Massena LAB

In the 1960s, Angelus launched a “doctor’s watch,” a wrist-worn hand-wound chronograph with a dial that presented a dual scale for reading the vital signs doctors need during patient examinations. It had a pulsometer to measure the patient’s pulse and an asthmometer to record their respiratory rate. This rare piece has been brought up to date by Angelus to appeal to contemporary tastes. In consultation with William Massena, founder of Massena LAB, Angelus is releasing a limited edition of 99 pieces.

The case is made from 316L steel, and its diameter has been increased to 39mm to make the pulsometer scale more legible. The functions and how they are presented on the dial remain the same. The pulsometer has a very specific color code: green, black or red, corresponding to the severity of the reading during an examination. By contrast, the respiratory scale is red and is contained inside the minute circle.

The watch is powered by a specific version of Angelus’ A5000 caliber. It displays the small seconds at 9 o’clock and only the chronograph seconds hand – the only one needed to use the medical scales. With no 30-minute counter, this caliber is dedicated to diagnosis. This version is presented with a single mushroom-shaped pusher at 2 o’clock. Operating at a rate of 3 Hz, it incorporates a column wheel and a horizontal clutch.

Arnold & Son Globetrotter Platinum
Arnold & Son Globetrotter Platinum

Arnold & Son Globetrotter Platinum

The 45mm platinum case houses a dial featuring a central globe depicting the northern hemisphere. It’s made of mother-of-pearl in graduated shades of blue. An 18k gold bridge spans the dial display. The continents are rhodium-plated and polished with matt mountain range detailing. The oceans and shorelines consist of hand-painted blue lacquer and powdered mother-of-pearl. The watch is powered by the caliber A&S6022 automatic movement. It is released in a limited edition of 28 pieces.

Czapek Antarctique Titanium Dark Sector
Czapek Antarctique Titanium Dark Sector

Czapek Antarctique Titanium Dark Sector

This watch features a 40.5 titanium case in its natural gray color, which houses an anthracite gray brass dial with velouté finish and exclusive registered segments design; as well as luminescent, steel “sword” hands. The watch is powered by the caliber SXH5 automatic movement. Completing this piece is an integrated titanium bracelet.

Sylvain Pinaud Origine
Sylvain Pinaud Origine

Sylvain Pinaud Origine

This artisan watchmaker’s creation is a study in producing a piece of high watchmaking skill by hand. The asymmetrical dial arrangement is designed to create a balanced approach to reading the time. The Origine comes with steel balance and escapement bridges combined with flame-blued steel hands. A second version is available with rich rose gold escapement bridges and hands.

All components are manufactured by hand in Sylvain Pinaud’s atelièr by the watchmaker using vintage production machinery. The in-house caliber hand wound movement offers stable chronometry, with a power reserve of 55 hours. The plate and the bridges are made from nickel silver, highlighted by the bridgework of the regulating organ made from polished gold. All of the components are hand finished.

This article was first published on forbes.com.

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