Collection of historic jewels and objects could fetch $25 million at auction

Jewellery

Christie’s will offer a private collection of nearly 300 20th-century jewels, Art Deco vanity cases, and fine 18th- and 19th-century gold boxes
A David Morris 14.63-carat fancy orangy-pink diamond ring. Est: $1.6 million-$2.6 million
A David Morris 14.63-carat fancy orangy-pink diamond ring. Estimate: $1.6 million-$2.6 million Christie’s

Christie’s will offer a private collection of nearly 300 20th-century jewels, Art Deco vanity cases, and fine 18th- and 19th-century gold boxes in a dedicated live auction in Geneva and a simultaneous online sale, both in November.

Christie’s said the collection, titled “Exceptional Jewels & Objects of Elegance: A Connoisseur’s Collection,” was assembled over four decades “with a collector’s eye and a curator’s sensibility.” It includes pieces from several important jewelry houses, including Van Cleef & Arpels, Graff, Bulgari and David Morris.

Christie’s expects the collection to fetch more than $25 million.

Van Cleef & Arpels Bird of Paradise brooch. Estimate: $600,000-$1 million
Van Cleef & Arpels Bird of Paradise brooch. Estimate: $600,000-$1 million Christie’s

Rahul Kadakia, president of Christie’s Asia Pacific and chairman of Christie’s Luxury, said the collection “reflects a legacy of remarkable discernment, refined taste and an enduring appreciation for beauty that transcends time.” He also highlighted its “rare and remarkable ensemble of Art Deco vanity cases and exquisitely crafted gold boxes.”

Highlights include a selection of eight mystery-set pieces by Van Cleef & Arpels. Patented in 1933, the mystery-set technique allows gemstones to be mounted without visible prongs, creating uninterrupted fields of color and showcasing a high level of craftsmanship.

Graff cushion-shaped emerald earrings, each over 17 carat. Est: $900,000-$1.5 million
Graff cushion-shaped emerald earrings, each weighing over 17 carat. Estimate: $900,000-$1.5 million Christie’s

Leading the selection is the ruby and diamond Oiseau Mystérieux brooch (estimate: $600,000-$1 million). A signature theme of Van Cleef & Arpels since the 1920s, the bird of paradise has inspired some of the house’s most celebrated creations. The brooch was acquired directly from Van Cleef & Arpels in the early 2000s, Christie’s said.

Other pieces from the French jewelry house include a mystery-set Fuchsia brooch (estimate: $400,000-$600,000), a pair of ruby Cadix earrings (estimate: $300,000-$500,000), and a mystery-set ruby ring (estimate: $50,000-$70,000).

A Bulgari 14.38 carat Burmese ruby Trombino ring. Estimate: $700,000-$1.2 million
A Bulgari 14.38 carat Burmese ruby Trombino ring. Estimate: $700,000-$1.2 million Christie’s

The mystery-set selection also includes sapphire-set pieces that illustrate the versatility and artistry of Van Cleef & Arpels’ celebrated technique.

The collection also includes exceptional diamonds and colored gemstones that are among the top lots of the sale. They include a 14.63-carat fancy orangy-pink diamond ring by David Morris (estimate: $1.6 million-$2.6 million) and a pair of cushion-shaped emerald and diamond earrings by Graff, each featuring an emerald of more than 17 carats (estimate: $900,000-$1.5 million).

A Cartier Art Deco rock crystal cigarette box
A Cartier Art Deco rock crystal cigarette box Christie’s

Other examples include the iconic Bulgari Trombino ring, mounted with a fine 14.38-carat Burmese ruby (estimate: $700,000-$1.2 million), and a pair of oval sapphires weighing 20.60 and 18.99 carats, set as diamond-flanked earrings and signed Van Cleef & Arpels (estimate: $600,000-$800,000).

The collector’s eye for craftsmanship is equally evident in a selection of gold boxes and vanity cases. Christie’s said the selection is led by highly sought-after Cartier cases, which showcase the brand’s mastery of the decorative arts. Cartier began creating these cases in the 1920s, drawing inspiration from a variety of artistic traditions, from Chinese lacquer work to Japanese decorative arts, all executed with close attention to detail.

Marchak and Makowsky Art Deco enamel, mother-of pearl and diamond vanity case
Marchak and Makowsky Art Deco enamel, mother-of pearl and diamond vanity case Christie’s

Ingenious mechanisms, balanced hinges and carefully conceived interiors further demonstrate the technical sophistication for which Cartier became renowned.

The collection also includes gold boxes, snuff boxes and pill boxes dating from the 18th and 19th centuries. Many are enriched with carved hardstones, sculpted cameos and elaborate enamelwork, showcasing the artistry of jewelers, goldsmiths and silversmiths at the height of their craft. Adorned with Oriental scenes, floral motifs and mythological subjects, the objects reflect the refinement, technical mastery and artistic achievement represented in the collection.

Théodule Bourdier, an Art Deco malachite, onyx, coral and enamel vanity case
Théodule Bourdier, an Art Deco malachite, onyx, coral and enamel vanity case Christie’s

“Exceptional Jewels & Objects of Elegance: A Connoisseur’s Collection” will be offered by Christie’s in a dedicated live auction at the Hôtel des Bergues in Geneva on November 10, featuring 123 pieces. A dedicated online sale will run from November 5-17 and present 152 jewels from the collection.


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